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Bell tower of a Casco Viejo church against a blue evening sky, palm trees below
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Panama City

Panama
2023 · Three Weeks

Three weeks in Panama City, walking the streets of Casco Viejo and following a country whose geography has shaped everything from oceans and ecosystems to commerce and history.

The Lead Story
01
History & Infrastructure

The Ships Descend at Miraflores

A ship too large for its channel, a history harder to repeat than the one I'd inherited, and forty-five minutes of water doing the work.

Miraflores Locks control building, Panama Canal
From the City

Panama City Notebook

A rainforest outside Gamboa and a balcony in Casco Viejo -- two ways of paying closer attention than planned.

The container ship Nanjing Confidence passing through the Panama Canal's Miraflores Locks in the rain
Miraflores Locks, Panama Canal

Field Notes

01
A sloth sleeping in the trees at Punta Culebra Nature Center, Panama

The Sleeping Sloth

From a Gehry-designed museum about the isthmus rising to a sloth completely uninterested in being seen.

02
A cup of Panama Geisha coffee and a glass pot at Sisu Coffee Studio, Casco Viejo

The Champagne of Coffee

I'd heard Geisha called the champagne of coffee. I walked to Casco Viejo to find out for myself.

03
The Vegan Shack logo, Casco Viejo

The Conversation I Hadn't Planned

I'd rehearsed enough Spanish to order lunch. I hadn't planned on a two-hour conversation in flawless English.

Field Notes  /  Panama City

Photography

Panama City in Photographs

A visual notebook from three weeks between the canal and Casco Viejo.

Biomuseo, Frank Gehry's biodiversity museum in Panama City
Biomuseo · Amador Causeway
An iguana in the grass at Punta Culebra Nature Center, Panama City
Green Iguana · Punta Culebra
Panama City skyline seen across the bay from the Amador Causeway
Skyline from the Causeway
Interior of the Metropolitan Cathedral, Panama City
Cathedral Interior · Casco Viejo
A white gazebo in Plaza de la Independencia, Casco Viejo
Plaza de la Independencia
A cat sleeping on a park bench in Casco Viejo
Afternoon Nap · Casco Viejo
A stone fountain overlooking the Panama City skyline at dusk
Fountain Overlook · Casco Viejo
A wayfinding sign pointing to plazas and churches in Casco Viejo
Wayfinding · Casco Viejo
Coming Next

When Two Oceans Became Two

At Biomuseo, the story of how a narrow strip of land divided oceans, joined continents and changed the natural history of the planet.

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